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Conditions
Conditions

Melasma / Pigmentation In Dark Skin

Melasma is already one of the most stubborn pigmentation conditions to treat. Still, in darker skin types (Fitzpatrick IV–VI), it presents unique challenges. The very trait that gives deeper skin tones their natural protection—higher melanin content—also makes them more prone to uneven pigmentation and post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation (PIH). At Skin Renewal, we understand the complexities of treating melasma in patients with darker skin and provide safe, customised, and effective treatment plans that respect the unique biology of your skin.
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Melasma Explained by Dr Maureen Allem
Melasma, often linked to hormones and inflammation, is one of the most complex pigmentation conditions treated at Skin Renewal. In this in-depth video, Dr Maureen explores the latest regenerative approaches to melasma management, uncovering its hormonal triggers, lifestyle links, and inflammatory drivers like mast cell activation.

Why Darker Skin Is More Susceptible to Melasma

Melanocytes, the pigment-producing cells in the skin, are more active and numerous in darker skin tones. This means even minor triggers—such as sun exposure, heat, hormonal changes, or inflammation—can lead to an overproduction of pigment. In melasma, this results in stubborn brown or grey-brown patches that are often more widespread and more noticeable.

Additional factors include:

  • Heightened Melanin Response: Melanocytes are more reactive, making the skin more vulnerable to pigmentation triggers.
  • Risk of Post-Inflammatory Hyperpigmentation (PIH): Aggressive treatments can have unintended consequences, leaving behind even darker marks.
  • Chronic Inflammation: Darker skin may respond to stressors with prolonged inflammation, fuelling pigmentation.

The Role of the Dermal-Epidermal Junction

In darker skin types, disruption of the dermal-epidermal junction (DEJ) is particularly problematic. Once pigment leaks into the dermis, it becomes highly resistant to treatment and fades much more slowly. This makes strengthening and repairing the DEJ a cornerstone of our approach at Skin Renewal.

Treatment Challenges for Darker Skin Tones

Treating melasma in darker skin requires a careful balance—strong enough to target excess pigment but gentle enough to avoid triggering PIH. Some treatments commonly used on lighter skin may not be safe or effective for darker skin tones. For example:

  • Lasers and IPL: Certain wavelengths can cause rebound pigmentation or burns if not carefully selected and adjusted.
  • Deep Chemical Peels: May lead to scarring or prolonged PIH in darker tones.

That’s why our doctor-led team at Skin Renewal creates personalised protocols that prioritise safety while effectively targeting pigmentation. 

Safe and Effective Treatments for Darker Skin

Our multi-layered, combination approach ensures that each treatment plan is tailored to the patient’s skin type and severity of melasma. Options may include:

At-Home Skincare and Supplement Support

Long-term management of melasma in darker skin types requires ongoing home care and internal support. Our curated range of topical and oral products addresses multiple pathways of pigmentation:

  • Azelaic Acid: Safe for sensitive, melasma-prone skin.
  • Niacinamide: Reduces inflammation and strengthens the skin barrier.
  • Tranexamic Acid: Available in topical and oral form for stubborn pigmentation.
  • Retinoids: Promote gentle cell turnover to prevent pigment build-up.
  • Antioxidants: Vitamin C and Phloretin help neutralise oxidative stress.

Lifestyle Support for Lasting Results

For individuals with darker skin tones, prevention is just as important as treatment. Key strategies include:

  • Daily Sun Protection: SPF 50+ with high UVA protection, even indoors.
  • Heat Avoidance: Minimising exposure to saunas, hot kitchens, or prolonged periods of heat.
  • Gut Health Support: Anti-inflammatory diets and probiotics to calm systemic inflammation.
  • Stress Management and Sleep: Essential for balancing hormones and reducing triggers.

Why Choose Skin Renewal for Pigmentation in Darker Skin

At Skin Renewal, we recognise that melasma in darker skin requires more than a one-size-fits-all solution. Our doctor-led team takes a holistic approach, combining advanced in-clinic treatments, customised skincare, lifestyle interventions, and supplement support. With experience treating all skin types, we ensure that every treatment is not only practical but also safe, helping to restore confidence and radiance while protecting the integrity of your skin.

Types of Pigmentation

Skin Pigmentation Disorder

Description

Common Triggers

Affected Areas

Freckles (Ephelides)

Small, flat brown spots that appear after repeated sun exposure, especially in people with fair skin. They tend to become darker in summer and fade in winter. In fair skins and particularly blonde/red haired individuals, some are born with a predisposition for developing freckles.

Sun exposure/Genetics

Common on face, shoulders, and arms

Age Spots (Solar Lentigines)

Flat, tan, brown, or black spots with a distinct edge that occur due to sun exposure over many years.

Prolonged sun exposure

Common on sun-exposed areas like the face, hands, and arms

Melasma

Larger patches of brown or greyish pigmentation, often on the face. It is more common in women and can be triggered by hormonal changes. Although rare, melasma can occur in men.

Hormonal changes (e.g., pregnancy, birth control pills)

Common on the face

Post-inflammatory Hyperpigmentation

Darker spots or patches that occur after skin injury or inflammation from conditions like acne, eczema, or lupus.

Skin injury or inflammation

Can appear anywhere on the body

Albinism

A genetic condition resulting in little or no pigment in the skin, hair, and eyes due to lack of melanin production.

Genetic mutation

Entire body

Vitiligo

Patchy loss of skin pigmentation, resulting in irregular white patches on different areas of the body. It is an autoimmune disorder where melanocytes are destroyed.

Autoimmune disorder

Can appear on different areas of the body

 

frequently asked
questions

Is treatment for Melasma in dark skin types available at all Skin Renewal branches ?
Why is melasma more common in darker skin tones?

Darker skin contains more active melanocytes, meaning pigment-producing cells respond more strongly to triggers like sun exposure, hormones, and inflammation. This makes people with medium to dark skin more prone to melasma and other forms of hyperpigmentation.

Is melasma more challenging to treat in dark skin?

Yes. While all melasma is stubborn, in darker skin types, the risk of post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation (PIH) is higher. Treatments must be carefully chosen and tailored to avoid worsening pigmentation or causing scarring.

Are chemical peels safe for darker skin?

Yes, but only when the right type and strength are selected. Gentle, superficial peels formulated for darker skin can improve melasma. In contrast, deep or aggressive peels may cause rebound pigmentation or irritation.

Can laser treatments be used on dark skin with melasma?

They can, but with caution. Advanced technologies like Pico Toning or fractional devices, when used at safe settings, are effective. At Skin Renewal, our doctors carefully assess each patient to ensure secure, customised laser protocols for darker skin types.

How important is sun protection for melasma in dark skin?

It is essential. Even though darker skin has natural protection against UV damage, melasma is highly sun-sensitive. Daily SPF 50+, hats, and limiting heat exposure are key to preventing flare-ups.

Can lifestyle changes help with melasma in dark skin types?

Yes. An anti-inflammatory diet, stress management, good sleep, and gut health support can all improve treatment outcomes. Reducing triggers like sun, heat, and harsh skincare products helps prevent relapse.

Will melasma go away on its own in darker skin?

Usually not. Melasma tends to be chronic and can persist for years without targeted treatment. However, the right combination of professional care, topical products, and lifestyle strategies can significantly lighten patches and prevent recurrence.

Frequently asked questions

Is treatment for Melasma in dark skin types available at all Skin Renewal branches ?
Why is melasma more common in darker skin tones?

Darker skin contains more active melanocytes, meaning pigment-producing cells respond more strongly to triggers like sun exposure, hormones, and inflammation. This makes people with medium to dark skin more prone to melasma and other forms of hyperpigmentation.

Is melasma more challenging to treat in dark skin?

Yes. While all melasma is stubborn, in darker skin types, the risk of post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation (PIH) is higher. Treatments must be carefully chosen and tailored to avoid worsening pigmentation or causing scarring.

Are chemical peels safe for darker skin?

Yes, but only when the right type and strength are selected. Gentle, superficial peels formulated for darker skin can improve melasma. In contrast, deep or aggressive peels may cause rebound pigmentation or irritation.

Can laser treatments be used on dark skin with melasma?

They can, but with caution. Advanced technologies like Pico Toning or fractional devices, when used at safe settings, are effective. At Skin Renewal, our doctors carefully assess each patient to ensure secure, customised laser protocols for darker skin types.

How important is sun protection for melasma in dark skin?

It is essential. Even though darker skin has natural protection against UV damage, melasma is highly sun-sensitive. Daily SPF 50+, hats, and limiting heat exposure are key to preventing flare-ups.

Can lifestyle changes help with melasma in dark skin types?

Yes. An anti-inflammatory diet, stress management, good sleep, and gut health support can all improve treatment outcomes. Reducing triggers like sun, heat, and harsh skincare products helps prevent relapse.

Will melasma go away on its own in darker skin?

Usually not. Melasma tends to be chronic and can persist for years without targeted treatment. However, the right combination of professional care, topical products, and lifestyle strategies can significantly lighten patches and prevent recurrence.

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I am incredibly pleased to have walked through the doors of Skin Renewal Parkhurst after many years of merely passing it on the way to work. I have been given thoughtful advice on the treatment of the Melasma on my face, a condition that has bothered and upset me, and I find myself looking forward to each visit as the condition shows dramatic improvement. Marisa is a wonderful therapist, taking such pride in her work and is incredibly professional in administering the treatments I receive. I look forward to seeing the beaming faces at reception and appreciate the careful consideration Dr Semple gives when suggesting further treatment. Many thanks, as highly recommended.

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The staff at Brooklyn are awesome, I feel like I'm at home every time I go there. Keep up the good spirit guys, you rock!!!

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Hiermee net 'n dankie boodskap vir die facial; Tammy was ongelooflik goed en professioneel. Ek het die werklik waardeer en dit was 'n ware bederf!

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Cindy is friendly, efficient and considerate during the treatment. I receive professional threading treatment and the advice is appreciated.

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I have had a pleasant experience so far and I love my therapist, she's professional and knowledgeable as well as friendly.

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Cindy Mouton is a very friendly and professional therapist, as part of the Willowbridge team.

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